As we were falling off our ‘New Years Resolution’ bandwagons way back when in February, the fashion world entered the hysteria of another season of runways, plane delays and diva-days.
With the glitterati being way ahead of the norm a few months ago, we’re fast approaching the Autumn Winter 11/12 fashion drop (link to WGSN trend talk).
Clinging to fashion like a conjoined twin, are the beauty posse; armed with enough brushes and contraptions to intimidate the surrealist Salvador Dali. On hand to pounce on unsuspecting live-mannequins in the whirlwinds known as ‘Fashion Week’.
If fashion is the art, then beauty is its frame. Complimenting designer rags, make-up serves to enhance, add depth and bring synergy to a look. Like Thelma and Louise; one would be lost without the other. Complimenting the AW11/12 clothing trends, fashion week make-up artist and North West trainer, Louise Adshead, notes the top trends for the just around the corner season.
Emerging in New York in the DKNY and Anna Sui shows, the sixties signature travelled in the form of Antonio Beradi, Jonathon Saunders and Threeasfour.
With a luminous, almost egg-shell base, the focus feature of this look is the eyes. Proving you can never have too much of a good thing, the key to nailing this look is layering on mascara by the bucket load, the goal being to exaggerate and falsify them. As seen in the Paul & Joe RTW show in Paris (1) the look can be summed up as ‘a modern sixties direction, with a slick of gloss on the eye, white rimmed waterlines and a hint of coral on the lips, the star of the show are eyelashes’.
Throw the rule book out of the window, enjoy the textures and flutter.
If Kate Moss could coin a look, this is it. Swathed in a murky, androgynous but surprisingly refined make-up minefield, this look is the Hells Angel of the beauty pack.
With a perfected pure, powdered base, choose one focus feature and ‘grime’ it up. Think like a man, style like a man, there is nothing subtle about this look. Keep lashes bare and eyebrows full. Hollow out cheekbones and give the overall look a ‘worn in feel’.
Designers sporting this style included Proenza Schouler, Dsquared and Richard Nicoll. Gareth Pugh embraced this especially, going to the exciting extreme of attaching eye shield to his models, giving a creative flair to this butch look.
Theatre circa 70s
With one rule, this look is energetic, playful and theatrical – ‘there’s no such thing as enough colour’. Like partying in Studio 54 in its heyday, this look has pops of colours, more than one focus feature and is glossier than Malibu Barbie.
As seen at Louise Gray, Manish Arora, Jean Pierre Braganza, and Meadham Kirchhoff, this is a multi-dimensional, arty, look. Summed up by Alex Box, make-up artist for the Vivienne Westwood Red Label; “it’s as if a child has finger-painted over the top of a beautiful 18th century veneer painting. It’s surreal but serene”. Obliterating the fear of being ‘too much’, each layer is laboriously technically demanding which gives an opulence of regal proportions that looks almost photoshopped on.
Noted as a ‘dreamy and poetic look but with a clear direction’, this is an extension of the raw beauty of early Autumn. The romantic atmosphere coupled with soft, natural, undulating palettes, allow this style to champion natural beauty, playing on its simplicity.
Using pigments already found in the skin, the idea is to place them in surprising places. From corals, to khaki and even greys, the key is to use washes of colour rather than bold application. A monochromatic feel, the look is charged with emotion. Using fingers to push the product into the skin, it ends up a little undone. As seen in Balmain, Rodarte, Mary Katrantzou and Carolina Herrara this look is simplicity at its most beautiful.
Asked for her top tip to approaching the upcoming seasons make-up trends Louise noted that ‘confidence is essential. Whether its curling lashes or applying a simply lipstain. Do it with a sense of purpose. Beauty is the most effective booster one can have, enjoy the kaleidoscope of trends.’