Louis, the swanky Spinningfields spot known for its theatrical-level glamour and secretive ‘no photos’ policy, has been open for six months. To mark the milestone, they’ve refreshed their Italian-American menu with loads of comforting dishes infused with a generous helping of high-glam flair.
Part of the Permanently Unique Group – which includes Spinningfields destinations Tattu and Fenix – going to Louis is a whole thing, as they say. From the moment you arrive, you’re greeted by a trilbied doorman, to being ushered to your secluded booth, to the table-side dessert cart, to the programme of suitably smooth crooner singers on the velvet curtain-framed stage, it’s all about being transported to 1930s NYC, and a whimsical, slightly campy version of it at that.
This approach extends to the new menu, which includes dishes like a fresh focaccia topped with Tuscan shrimp, Maldon rock oysters, and a steak tartare presented on a lasagne sheet with egg yolk and parmigiano foam (so you can fashion it into a little cannelloni roll, if you so desire).
Other highlights include an intensely savoury bourbon-braised short rib that does exactly what a short rib should; which is immediately fall apart. It was served with mushrooms, and a sweet potato crisp, for that all-important contrast, of course.
Unsurprisingly, there’s a stand-out pasta dish: fresh cavatelli pasta with a duck ragu. The slow-cooked sauce has been paired by head chef Matteao D’elia with little flour dough shells for a rustic-feel packed with bold flavours.
Elsewhere on the refreshed menu, D’elia and his slick team have introduced a perfectlyly crispy veal Milanese served with a deeply savoury saltimbocca sauce. Fish fans are also well catered to – there’s a seabass fillet with spicy butter and an aubergine croquette.
Dessert-wise, things are old school and uncomplicated. There’s a chocolate tart, a cheesecake and a tiramisu, the ‘Louis’ element is that they come right to your table, on a trolley. You’d be hard-pushed to say this is a rustic, down-to-earth Italian dining experience – it’s a fairytale.
And that’s the point.
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