Chef Luke Payne - from the Pack Horse at Hayfield - is channelling the simple joys of the forgotten cuts and 50s recipes...
At Almanac in Glossop, the menu is old fashioned. You won’t find a foam, that’s for sure, nor an artistic swipe of sauce across a plate. There are no gels.
But you will find slow-cooked ox tongue that melts in the mouth, lavishly rich beef mince on toast, ox heart, hogget, ignored cuts that chef Luke Payne – of the nearby Packhorse pub in Hayfield – is now championing.
There’s also dishes like Orbs of Joy, the slowly-braised onion dish popularised by Fergus Henderson of the legendary St. John.
‘It’s like your nan has been Michelin trained,’ it was said, pretty succinctly, in the suggestion we received. And who could ignore a recommendation like that?
We headed to the edge of the Peaks to the neighbourhood restaurant that harks back to a more homely time, but executed with skill and precision.
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