Tartuffe

Tartuffe proves just how far you can take comfort food with a bit of imagination and the right equipment. Set within Side Street, it’s a stylish but easy-going rotisserie kitchen from the team behind chef collective Hot Buttered — and while the name might suggest French theatre, the cooking is all about deeply satisfying plates with a generous side of flair.

The focus here is slow-roasted chicken, brined, basted and spit-roasted to glistening perfection. But that’s only the beginning. Tartuffe’s signature chicken kiev — crisped, stuffed, and slathered in parsley aioli — is a favourite for good reason, and the kitchen’s take on hash browns topped with caviar and crème fraîche brings pure indulgence to a side dish that’s rarely treated with such respect.

Elsewhere, expect rotisserie-roasted veg dressed up in unexpected ways, playful uses of cheese, spice and texture, and sauces that feel purpose-built for reckless dipping. The menu doesn’t overreach, but what’s on it is thoughtful, seasonal, and properly delivered. There’s a sense that every element on the plate has earned its place.

The setting matches the food: warm, relaxed and just polished enough. Service is casual but sharp, with a drinks list that favours bright wines, unfussy cocktails, and good beer.