If you’re a fan of eateries that require a little effort to discover, The Spärrows, tucked away in a grand, black-painted archway in the Green Quarter near Victoria Station, will certainly appeal. Knock on the door, and you’ll be ushered into a warm, arch-ceilinged dining room adorned with retro memorabilia and a wall showcasing wine and sake.
At The Spärrows, the focus is on homemade dumplings and spätzle, a kind of craggy, thick pasta originating from the mountain regions of South Germany, Switzerland, Alsace, South Tyrol, Austria, and Northern Italy. Smother your rustic spätzle in a sticky sauce of your choosing, be it a creamy, cheesy one or a simple tomato. But don’t forget to add some Russian pelmeni or Polish pierogi to your order to share around, and if your appetite’s up to it, a shallow dish of lemon zest sprinkled Tyrolean Goulash with a chunk of springy house-baked focaccia is an excellent choice. There are salads, sauerkraut and alpine cheeses on offer too, or for a trip down memory lane, try the classic Swiss fondue. The menu remains pretty consistent, with just a few seasonal adjustments to specials. Despite this, you’ll find yourself wanting to return over and over, particularly with a first-timer in tow. If you need any more convincing, The Spärrows’ recent addition to the Michelin Guide (gaining Bib Gourmand status) should speak to its quality.