Erst

Out of dilapidation and dereliction Ancoats has sprung up as a district renowned for drinking and dining, with Cutting Room Square in particular something of a beacon for foodies who find themselves spoilt for choice. In and among the options, Erst, sitting just around corner from the square itself, is both one of the most famous and most deserving of its reputation. A casually designed, immaculately plated haunt that specialises in additive free wines and inspired seasonal menus served in an airy, open, laidback space that makes it easy to stay for a few hours more than planned. 

Things change quickly here in terms of the dishes on offer, but we’ll do our best to pluck examples from sample menus and first hand experience. Carlingford Oyster with Rhubarb Mignonette or Lemon, Grilled Flatbread, Beef Fat & Urfa Chilli, Roasted Squash, Spiced Lentils & Sheep’s Yogurt, Scallop & XO Sauce, Short Rib Ragu and Cavatelli. Beef Tongue, Smoked Jowl, Sauerkraut and Quince. Like we said, the ideas are as confident  as the interior design, but Erst manages to pull this cuisine off without the stereotypical price tag or stuffy vibe. Ever modern, contemporary and youthful. For want of better choices in words. 

So that means no complicated molecular tasting menus, no overblown (and overpriced) cocktails, and no £500 Champagne bottles only bankers and football players feel the need to buy. Instead, this is the place to try out some really interesting modern cooking and explore the nascent world of natural wine. Although you can still get a ‘classic’ vino if preferred. So that’s full marks from us, although these days the name Erst speaks for itself anyway, we’d add that the roast dinner here is definitely worth a punt on a Sunday. Just make sure you book because we’re not the only ones who think that.