They say all of life lives somewhere on or close to the Oxford Road Corridor. The district is certainly home to more than its fair share of hidden gems, from second hand and vintage clothes to specialist music kit, discreet live venues, loft clubs and basement noodle joints. Specifically Umami, a bonafide institution in these parts which takes its name from the fifth fundamental flavour type — a cornerstone of Japanese and Far Eastern cooking which is found across the menu at this subterranean eatery.
Although tucked away beneath the streets, the hungry and the curious will know when they’ve found Umami thanks to the bright red flag and neon sign marking the address. Once through the door, the layout will naturally guide you downstairs to the dining area proper, with the whole place feeling like a hybrid of Asian street market and laidback ramen bar — an intoxicating and immediately welcoming atmosphere. Finding a table, next it’s time to tackle the menu, which focuses on firm favourites from the Land of the Rising Sun and its neighbours, including incredible gyoza, chicken yakitori skewers, and vegetable tempura.
Suffice to say, soups feature quite heavily, with the fragrant and tangy Thai Tom Yum a particular favourite of ours, alongside the spicy coconut laksa, a jewel in the Malaysian culinary crown. That said, for most the real highlight is ramen, and this place is up there with the best in the city from where we’re eating. Add to this fresh, handmade sushi — maki and nigiri your heart out — and it’s no wonder Umami has enjoyed such success for so long. Serving late into the night most days, and offering lunchtime deals and student discounts, those looking for healthy, informal dining options on the south side of town should make a note of this spot.