Where The Light Gets In

Not everyone finds Where the Light Gets in straight away. On our first visit we almost missed the unassuming door on the side of an unassuming building hiding amongst some of Stockport’s proudest historic rows. Located down a cobbled alleyway, on the upper floor of a heritage mill once used to store coffee, smack bang in the centre of town, it’s a fittingly tucked away location for an establishment that prides itself on impeccable standards but has never really felt the need to shout about it to everyone on the street. Basically, if you know, you know. 

Once seated the overwhelming charm, character and inimitability of the restaurant becomes apparent. Those huge windows, ensuring the Light definitely gets in, simple-yet-elegant wooden tables and chairs, solid timber floors. The whole place feels proud to be uncomplicated and exceptionally pleasing. And the same can be said for the food and drink, with dishes usually “vegetables first, meat second” and some of the most innovative and exquisitely balanced tasting menus we’re ever encountered served daily.

Everything is sourced direct from growers and producers, and ethics are of paramount consideration in all decisions. Whether that’s reducing food miles by growing ingredients on the roof, using fair trade supplier networks or committing to a whole-of-animal philosophy to ensure nothing is wasted. This also means no two visits are ever the same, with the kitchen team creating fresh menus based entirely on what they have to use at that time. Once it’s gone, it’s really gone. Well, at least until next time it’s back in stock. For the ultimate experience, we highly recommend stumping up for the wine pairing which follows a similar concept — expect plenty of natural vino from small scale vineyards, adding to the feeling of epicurean exploration, rather than just a really, really (really) good meal out.